Are there Michelin stars on the horizon for this Suffolk restaurant and hotel?

Then a pub (under different ownership), it was the scene of my antenatal class’s premiere ‘date night’. I’ll never forget the journey there. How my new friend picked me up, apologising for the dents in her Punto and promising, as she negotiated the swerves and hair-raising bends of Polstead, that she was a good driver.

Lifelong friendships were formed then. So this place holds a very special place in my heart...and I'd been interested to see what Suffolk Country Inns’ injection of around £2million had achieved.

Equally, the team have made no bones about reaching for those coveted Michelin stars – with a menu and price tag to match. Would it all be up to scratch?

I arrived with my mate Jo under the cloak of darkness...and into the almost ethereal glow of the terrace, which must be a grand spot for dining and drinking when there isn’t frost on the ground.

The Angel, Stoke-by-Nayland (Image: Brittany Woodman/ Archant)

Lugging our bags into the bar area for check-in, customers had already started filling out tables, and a roaring fire and soft lighting cast shadows about the simple, elegant dining room where (I’m told) weeks, if not months, were spent agonising over the finer details.

We were soon installed in The Stables, found just across the terrace. Pretty as a picture, with its pastel beams and crisp new white render, we were told it was completely gutted and renovated using traditional methods – while incorporating mod cons such as super-fast Wifi and air source heating.

Our duck egg blue room, The Wolsey, was suitably impressive, nodding to the building’s history (with preserved beams and a cute chapel window), while being bestowed with creature comforts such as air con, a large rainforest shower, and a separate standalone bath, hidden behind a high-tech frosted privacy screen.

While we tucked into a glass of fizz and house made chocolates, there was time to appreciate some of the finer details. From a book/Kindle holder over the bath. To the downy soft towels and robes in the shower room. An insulated flask of fresh milk for tea and coffee. USB charging points (hoorah – these are a rarity in East Anglia). And the fact there’s a pillow/duvet menu.

A couple of little gripes. There were no instructions for the Nespresso machine (it turns out it wasn’t switched on – I didn’t know where the button was and clearly need a degree for these things). And although the mini bottles of Noble Isle toiletries provided are superior quality to what’s available in many hotels, anything disposable makes me feel guilty these days.

All dolled up and it was time to tackle the tasting menu in the hotel restaurant. While a little dark in places (our table especially), there was much to commend the dining room. Jo couldn’t stop raving about how comfy the chairs were. The table (made locally) was enormous (no fear of accidentally elbowing anything onto the floor). Our glasses were lightweight crystal. Cutlery was slender and feminine. And serving plates had been made by various artisans for the kitchen.

A lot of care (and dosh) has clearly gone into every single detail.

The Well Room where breakfast is served (Image: Brittany Woodman/ Archant)

We began with a nosedive into the mocktail list - ‘real’ drinks, and not just a random mish-mash of fruit juice and syrups. The same attention to mixing that goes into the booze-laden cocktails had been applied. And their take on a passionfruit martini, and Amaretto sour really did hit the mark - just without the buzz.

If you want to push the boat out, I recommend taking advantage of the in-house sommelier’s expertise, allowing him to rustle up a flight of wines alongside your meal. He really knows his stuff – I should know, I quizzed the poor guy extensively. He freely and passionately reeled off details about every pairing, from the winemaker’s origins, to terroir.

I tried some lovely drops. Most notably the NV Goring ‘Family Release’ from Sussex’s Wiston Estate (a peppy number with crisp green apple, a thread of lemon zest and hint of pear), a New Zealand Pinot Noir (vanilla, smoke, light tannins and dark cherries), a floral, honeysuckle-laden South African Viognier, and a surprising northern Greek Xinomavo, made with bush grapes and, with its splash of tartness and violet, a perfect foil for the richness of game.

Now, let’s get to that food. From the off, I have to say this is gourmet dining. It’s not the kind of place to fill your boots on burger towers and Caesar salads.

Exec chef Ruben Aguilar Bel (joined in the kitchen by wife and head pastry chef Gabbi) uses the menu to tell a story – weaving hints of his Spanish heritage through the fabric of the menu, while putting a laser focus on the very best of British and local ingredients.

A peep in the kitchen shows they mean business. There’s no fancy kit. Just stoves, ovens and a barbecue – the wherewithal for serious cooking.

The epicurean journey began with expertly-made sourdough, all bouncy and wholesome under a forgivingly thin crust. Served with house-cultured butter it was so good we couldn’t turn down a second round.

Of the amuse bouches, the star by a country mile was a golden, melting, savoury croqueta of Iberian ham, made to Ruben’s grandmother’s recipe. By God, I could have secreted myself to a corner and eaten a whole bowl of them.

Our first course was a delicate, dainty presentation of coins of Felixstowe lobster, over a lobster salad with frozen white asparagus cream, and a sweetly herbaceous tomato consommé poured tableside.

Very good.

But completely overshone by the plate that followed. Any Spanish chef worth their salt knows it’s practically a sin to serve paella after lunchtime. But Ruben had managed to capture the essence of the ubiquitous dish so succinctly and beautifully, tucking al dente rice, toothsome mangetout, nuggets of hare and slivers of Iberian ham under a blanket of set stock, which melted and oozed its way between the grains. Stunning.

It was followed by local bass cooked over fire with a sweet romesco sauce and buttered, lemony cavolo nero. A simple plate that didn’t need its garnish of almost-raw romanesco.

Breast of salt-aged Creedy Carver duck had been cooked to just-pink, served with paper-thin duck skin wafers, sweet heritage carrots, and a generous splash of sticky duck sauce. Unravelling a square of confit duck at the table seemed a bit fussy...but it did work. As our waitress prised open the casing, a whoosh of thyme and duck fat wafted across our plates, and the texture and flavour of that little bite was divine.

Onwards, and it was Gabbi’s turn to shine. With roasted figs, soft almond cake, a heady fig leaf mousse, olive oil ice cream, and rangy Chardonnay vinegar sauce. And an intriguing new dessert of dark chocolate jelly, arriving swathed in smoked tea under a cloche, with nips of Scottish whisky, and an Aleppo chilli flake-spiked crumble. Not for everyone. But definitely a talking point.

We went back to our room, utterly full, and taking with us Gabbi’s sensational petit fours – amaretti biscuits, black olive and dark chocolate bon bons, and blackberry and apple pate de fruits.

Competent and confident cooking all round. And a special mention has to go to the friendly young waiting staff who had been well-briefed on the dishes, delivering and explaining each one with pride.

We collapsed into bed, throwing ourselves under a duvet so gloriously puffy it floated like a cloud, and equally nuzzle-worthy pillows.

Unfortunately we couldn’t connect our phones to the smart TV to catch up on Strictly (I blame it on the room below stealing all the Wifi) but were soon in the land of nod – largely thanks to a proper heating/air con system that kept the room at the perfect, cooler temperature we’re both used to at home.

Breakfast was taken in The Well Room where there’s...a well. Don’t worry, you won’t fall in, it’s preserved under glass.

I love a feast of a continental breakfast, laid out like a medieval banquet, as much as the next person. But I often think how wasteful that must be. So I can understand The Angel’s decision, with only 11 rooms, to prepare everything to order in the morning.

There’s a long list of cereals, porridge, salads, homemade muffins, smaller and larger plates to choose from, and the team are happy to dish up whatever you like from the menu – in multiple courses if you like.

We worked our way through a salad of freshly chopped strawberries and pineapple, Baron Bigod melted on sourdough with seeds and honey warm pain au chocolat.

Jo’s eggs Benedict with Iberian ham was a little cold by the time it arrived, but still ate well.

And I was more than happy with my hot course of dense, meaty sausage, eggs, thin cut crispy bacon, grilled tomato and buttery mushroom. I’d have preferred a better-quality black pudding though. Something spicy and crumbly, like the type made in Norfolk by Fruitpig.

Alas, it was time to bid The Angel adieu. I was back for an afternoon of stripping paint, but anyone staying in the area has access to a wealth of lovely days out on the doorstep. Walks in Constable Country. In spring and summer paddleboarding over at Nayland (where The Angel’s sister business The Anchor is based). Exploring Suffolk’s wool towns and villages.

If you’re after a gastronomic getaway, it’s certainly a fine option. Worthy of those stars? Well, we’ll have to wait and see what monsieur Michelin has to say.

Book your stay

The Angel is open Wednesday to Sunday for short breaks. The restaurant is open to non-residents for lunch and dinner on these days too (booking is advised).

A Dine and Stay package is from £395 per couple including a three-course evening meal (without drinks) and breakfast. Upgrade to the tasting menu instead and pay from £415 per couple.

Bed and breakfast is from around £265.

Angelinnsuffolk.co.uk